Best of the Best: Our First 3 Months in Europe
Want to know one of the secret benefits of long term travel? You can look back on big stretches of time and reminisce about your favorite experiences. When we vacationed internationally for only two weeks at a time, I was hard to compare our current experience to past trips. Everything gets a bit foggy through the long distance lens of our memories. But when you visit new country after new country, these back-to-back experiences help bring to life the aspects of travel that you really enjoy and what you would rather skip.
During our first three months of travel, we learned that we really love to visit small cities (or big towns! However you want to describe them). We enjoy destinations more when there’s a lot of new, delicious foods to try and when we can be near water. And as former “fast travelers”, we learned that we tend to fall in love with a destination even more when we spend a longer stretch there. Learning all of this helped us build out the next stretch of our itinerary and shaped how we chose to spend our days (and money) during our next 7 months of our travels. I’m excited to share with you what made the best of the best list for our first three months of travel. But first, let’s set the stage on where we went during that time.
Over the course of 7 flights, 2 trains, 1 camper van, 4 buses, 3 ferries, and 5 rental cars, we visited 8 countries during our first three months of travel. We traveled both fast and slow (and medium?), explored major cities and small towns. Our shortest stay was three nights in Vienna and our longest stretch was two weeks in Budapest. Generally, the longer we spent in an area, the more it appears on the list below. With the exception of Croatia (we spent 17 days there) which has only three mentions. And while we love visiting London (especially to spend time with our close friends), it only made the list once!
OUR THREE MONTH ITINERARY
United Kingdom - 16 Days (London, Devon, Lake District, & Edinburgh)
Vienna - 3 Days
Slovenia - 16 Days (Ljubljana - 6 days in total, Camping - 10 days)
Budapest - 14 Days
Croatia - 17 Days (Pula, Split, & Dubrovnik)
Greece - 18 Days (Athens, Santorini, & Paros)
Istanbul - 8 Days
From the most delicious meals, the best beaches, and even our favorite countries ranked, here is… Best of the Best: Our First 3 Months in Europe!
FOOD & DRINKS
MEALS - TOP 5
5. TOASTIES AT LJUBLJANA CASTLE (SLOVENIA) - Toasties are a popular menu item all over Europe. These little ham and cheese toasties with the most incredible tomato, dipping sauce must of really hit the spot to make the top 5 list! (Destination Guide: Ljubljana)
4. MUSSELS WITH RICE IN ALIKI (PAROS, GREECE) - Like almost all of the dishes on this list, we ate this same meal twice! We love to repeat a dining experience during our long term travels. (Just another long term travel perk!) This dish of mussels with rice in a small fish tavern in Aliki was perfect and the whole experience was topped off by an incredible sunset during our meal. (Destination Guide: Paros)
3. VINO + RIBE (LJUBLJANA, SLOVENIA) - I love a fritto misto and this wonderful little restaurant in Ljubljana did not disappoint. It was also the first place that Olivia tried sardines and fell in love with them! (Destination Guide: Ljubljana)
2. GOULASH AT BALTHZAR (BUDAPST, HUNGARY) - We ate and enjoyed a lot of goulash in Budapest, but this one was our absolute favorite. (Destination Guide: Budapest)
1. GYROS IN NAOSSA (PAROS, GREECE) - We ate gyros not only in Greece, but in Turkey, Hungary, Paris, and Croatia too. But nothing compares to the gyros at Souvlakia Kargas in the little town of Naousa. We’ve been searching for a replica every since! (Destination Guide: Paros)
DESSERT - TOP 3
3. BLED CREAM CAKE (LAKE BLED, SLOVENIA) - Found all over Slovenia but famous in Lake Bled (it’s namesake), this cake is made up of a thin, flakey pastry and the most decadent cream filling. We all love it! While we camped in Lake Bled, the kids participated in the Cream Cake Race where they ran a lap while holding a cream cake and received a fork at the finish line!
2. WALNUT SWIRL PASTRY (LAKE BLED, SLOVENIA) - With a walnut filling similar to Potica, a traditional Slovenian bread roll, this cinnamon roll-equse pastry was always my first pick when visiting the “bread guy” in Lake Bled. (All about the “bread guy” and camping on Lake Bled in this post.)
1. CHIMNEY CAKE (BUDAPEST, HUNGARY) - During our two weeks in Budapest, we loved our tradition of walking up the hill to Fisherman’s Bastion to watch the sunset and eat a chimney cake. My kids laughed (and then repeated me mercilessly) when I said it was like a doughnut and a churro had a baby. But it’s true! They are so delicious. Get the cinnamon one. (Of course, it made the list of our favorite snacks around the world!)
BEST BEERS - TOP 5
5. UNION (LJUBLJANA, SLOVENIA) - This was our favorite, cheap lager from our travels and let me tell you, we tried a lot of them! Made in Ljubljana, we first tried it in Slovenia but found it all through Croatia as well. Their Radler (Beer + Lemonade) is also delicious! (Destination Guide: Ljubljana)
4. BURA BREW TORNADO IPA (PULA, CROATIA) - They call it an Istrian Pale Ale (instead of an India Pale Ale) and either way I loved it. We enjoyed this beer with a delicious seafood risotto in Pula’s Kantina Restaurant. (Destination Guide: Croatia coming soon)
3. FIRST IPA (BUDAPEST, HUNGARY) - Budapest was full of great craft beer and First IPA was at the top of the list for us. (Destination Guide: Budapest)
2. BREWDOG ELVIS IPA (ENGLAND) - Just call me Indiana Jones and my version of the movie would be “and the Search for the Elvis IPA”. Brewdog’s Punk IPA is popular all over Europe (and Asia too) but their Elvis IPA, a grapefruit IPA, is harder to find. We tried it once at a rest stop in England and then couldn’t find it again until… Athens, Greece of all places! (Especially strange because we could rarely even find much craft beer in Greece.) I then ended up finding it again in Tokyo. The beer is delicious, but I think the hunt for it made it taste even better!
1. LOO-BLAH-NAH (LJUBLJANA, SLOVENIA) - I first had this beer at an unnamed location (you’ll see why soon) and I fell in love with it. Super crispy and hoppy and everything I love about a West Coast IPA. I was out to dinner with T and I asked the waiter if I could buy a bottle to bring home to Trent. He said it was against their policy but then later smuggled me two bottles to take home. He made me promise not to share about our little deal so I’m keeping his secret, but I will just say that the beer is worth the crime! Slovenia is a hub for amazing craft beer and this one clearly stands out as our winner! (Destination Guide: Ljubljana)
BEST ACTIVITIES - TOP 5
5. PLITVITCHES NATIONAL PARK (CROATIA) - A friend’s photo of Plitvice Lakes was the first image to draw me to Croatia. Following the boardwalks over the lakes and past so many waterfalls was a dream. (This spot easily made our 41 Tourist Attractions that We Actually Loved list!)
4. LJUBLJANA WALKING TOUR (SLOVENIA) - A two hour, free walking tour covering the history and culture in Ljubljana… what a treat! I loved listening to our guide, who is a professor at the city’s university, and meeting other travelers. (Destination Guide: Ljubljana)
3. BUDAPEST BATHS & POOLS (HUNGARY) - You only need to read a handful of posts here to know that we love to find any way to indulge! Massages, saunas and hot tubs are high on the list. The baths in Budapest cover at least two of those. Trent and I took turns spending the majority of the day at Szechenyi and as a family we visited Palatinus twice! (Destination Guide: Budapest)
2. HAMAM (TURKEY) - A cultural practice dating back to the 7th-8th centuries… count me in! Both Trent and I were amazed and loved the experience of visiting a hamam (a bathhouse in Istanbul). (The hamam experience can be a bit daunting for newbies, so I broke down my whole experience in this guide.)
1. PAROS BOAT DAY (GREECE) - Being on a boat reminds both Trent and I of so many fun childhood memories and I was so glad that we splurged on this boat rental to make those kind of memories with our kids. From swimming in the blue lagoon, jumping off the boat, visiting a little island with a little while church as its only inhabitant, and explore Ubini Rocks beach with its crazy, coral-esque rocks, this day was simply our favorite. (Destination Guide: Paros)
BEST BEACHES - TOP 3
HONORABLE MENTION - KOLYMPETHRES (PAROS, GREECE) - This beach with its huge rock formations to climb was a hit with our family. There is great snorkeling here as well and a view of Naousa’s white buildings.
3. UBINI BEACH (ANTIPAROS, GREECE) - Mentioned above, it was the highlight of our Paros Boat Day!
2. LOLANTIS BEACH (PAROS, GREECE) - Paros almost swept the entire Best Beaches list! This island is truly wonderful and it made me want to visit so many other, less popular Greek islands. This was our go-to beach, less than two miles from our loft. We spent most afternoons here, floating on rafts, snorkeling, and turning Liv into a mermaid (with sand) again and again. Slow, phone-free afternoons that I often catch myself daydreaming about. (Destination Guide: Paros)
1. ZLANTI RAT (BRAC, CROATIA) - This beach, translated to “Golden Horn”, is a pyramid shaped beach that juts out into Adriatic Sea off of the island of Brac. We took a ferry (with our car on it) from Split to Brac and explored the island for the day with the majority of our time spent on Zlanti Rat. The beach is perfect with chairs by the water and great, little food stands to enjoy lunch and a beer. Transport me back now, please!
BEST HISTORICAL SITES - TOP 3
HONORABLE MENTION - DIOCLEATIAN’S PALACE - Easily the most beautiful landmark in Split, the palace (more like a fortress) was built in the 4th century and covers half of the city’s “old town.” We loved touring the cellars, spotting the Egyptian sphinxes and walking through the rotunda. My sister and Trent, both Game of Thrones fans, were having fun spotting filming locations.
3. FISHERMAN’S BASTION (BUDAPEST, HUNGARY) - Our apartment during our two week stay in Budapest was located at the bottom of the hill from Fisherman’s Bastion. Many nights we would walk up the hill and around the area just for something easy to do. The buildings at the top are so picturesque and the setting offers an amazing view of the “Pest” side of the city. A chimney cake to finish the walk never hurt either! (Destination Guide: Budapest)
2. STONEHENGE AT SUNRISE - Walking amongst these structures in the early morning sunrise light is just magical. It was the first of many “how lucky are we” moments during our travels. Stonehenge might have not even made this list if we had visited during the normal hours. Our Stone Circle Access tour made the experience memorable. (Read about it in our Stonehenge at Sunrise post).
1. POSTOJNA CAVES & CASTLE - Another childhood dream come true. Third grade me was geeking out when I finally got to ride a train 10 minutes into a cave! Each of us was in awe of every stalactite and stalagmite. Nature is so cool! And then a trip to Postojna Castle, built into the side of a mountain, was the icing on the cake! (A full Postojna Guide is coming soon!)
BEST MUSEUMS - TOP 3
3. NATURAL HISTORY LONDON - “Hope” (the blue whale skeleton), the dinosaur wing, a room full of gems… our kids adore this museum so much that we visited twice. (More on our trips to London here.)
2. HAGIA SOPHIA (ISTANBUL) - What a tale this building could tell. The Hagia Sophia was once the largest Christian Church of the Eastern Roman Empire. (There are still mosaics of Jesus Christ, the Virgin Mary and other Christian figures.) Then the building became a mosque after the fall of Constantinople to the Ottoman Empire. Then, it became a museum in the 1930s under the presidency of Atatürk. And in 2020 (after we visited), it became a mosque again, officially named the Hagia Sophia Holy Grand Mosque. From the year 360-2021, this building remains a point of controversy. (Destination Guide: Istanbul)
1. NATIONAL ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM (ATHENS, GREECE) - Tools and art from the Mycenaean civilization, Greek sculptures and vases of gods and historical figures, Egyptian antiquities. It’s all of the best parts of a museum visit rolled into one. We also loved the exhibit where you could smell oils that were re-created to smell like popular, ancient fragrances. Our kids adored this museum. It was actually moving to see them get so interested in the artifacts around them. (Destination Guide: Athens)
MEMORIES - TOP 5
HONORABLE MENTION - AUNT JULIE’S VISIT (CROATIA) - Only an honorable mention because not everyone has an amazing Aunt Julie (my sister!) who can come visit you on vacation. Otherwise it’s #1 for us! If you’re traveling long term, convince your family to visit because it’s so fun to share memories with them and have them catch a glimpse of what life on the road looks like for your family.
5. FOOR TOUR IN KADIKOY (TURKEY) - I spent the afternoon strolling through the Asian side of Istanbul with my guide, Burcu, eating what felt like every food that we passed by! The dishes were delicious but truly her company was what made this experience memorable. No one else had signed up for the tour, so we walked around and ate and chatted like old friends. Even one of the vendors who knows her well confused us for friends and didn’t think that she was conducting a tour. After three months of traveling, I moment like this away from my family to connect with someone else for a long period of time was simply amazing. (Destination Guide: Istanbul)
4. KITTENS IN ISTANBUL (TURKEY) - Our kid’s favorite part of Istanbul? The hotel we stayed at had cats, and kittens, in their courtyard. Our kids spent a minimum of an hour each day playing with the kittens. They even named them (Pandy, Hunter, and Facepaint) and Olivia will still occasionally burst into tears because she misses them!
3. MEETING ANOTHER TRAVELING FAMILY IN BUDAPEST (HUNGARY) - Similar to my time connecting with my tour guide in Istanbul, we had a wonderful experience connecting with another traveling family while at a St. Stephen’s Day food festival in Budapest. Our kids started playing together and then us parents starting talking, sharing travel memories, and swapping destination tips.
2. RELIGION CONVERSATION WITH T AT HAGIA SOPHIA (TURKEY) - I mentioned above the historical importance of the Hagia Sophia and the many religions that have claimed the space. While visiting our son, T (Trent), asked why Jesus was on a “T”. Since we haven’t brought him up in a religious practice, this question sparked a long conversation between him and I about religion and what different people believe. He had so many questions and while his attention on the subject only last about ten minutes, it was exactly the type of discussions that our travels would provide the background for. I felt so lucky to be in that space and have that time to dedicate to answering his questions.
1. ST. STEPHEN’S DAY FIREWORK (BUDAPEST, HUNGARY) - We happened to be in Budapest during a major summer holiday, St. Stephen’s Day. Celebrations stretched over three days ending with an amazing fireworks show. By the end of a long day at the Palatinus baths, we were tired and contemplated ditching the firework show. But we rallied and headed up the hill to Fisherman’s Bastion. It ended up being our favorite memory of the three months. The fireworks exceeded our expectations (by a lot!) and the experience taught us that if you push past your comfort zone many times you are greatly rewarded for it!
BEST ACCOMMODATIONS - TOP 5
5. ALILASS HOTEL (ISTANBUL) - A boutique hotel located in the Sultanahmet district and walking distance to many of the city’s most popular tourist sights. We loved this hotel for the decor and the friendly staff. It’s owned by two sisters and chatting with them and getting their recommendations each morning was a highlight. Also, their breakfast was my favorite! Simit, a bagel-like bread, yogurt, fresh fruits, and vegetables. And of course, delicious Turkish coffee and tea.
4. LJUBLJANA AIRBNB (SLOVENIA) - A two-story apartment filled with knick-knacks, books, and great decor. This airbnb was a stark difference from the many IKEA-furnished, bare minimum Airbnbs that we usually book. I tend to like a more simply decorated accommodation (mostly because it makes it easier to not loose things and leave them behind) but this place was so interesting and unique that it was totally worth it!
3. CAMPERVAN (SLOVENIA) - Our little Fiat Ducato camper van was so tiny, but perfect for our ten days of camping with two little kids. We quickly learned that we don’t need much space and it forced us to make ourselves at home outdoors. I begged Trent to buy me one when we returned to the states (I’m still waiting!) (10-day Slovenia Camping Guide)
2. LAKE DISTRICT GLAMPING POD (ENGLAND) - These next two Airbnbs made our top list of our favorite Airbnbs around the world! This glamping pod is located on a farm in a quiet area of the Lake District in northern England. It was our first time slowing down and doing practically nothing all day. We wandered the walking trails, meet cows and sheep, fed the hens. Our host, JoAnne, and her husband work on the farm all day. They’re clear to state that they can’t give tours of the farm (they’re busy all day!), but her husband spontaneously took time one afternoon to teach our kids how to round up the sheep for the evening. Our animal loving kids were thrilled and still talk about that afternoon.
1. DONKEY LOFT (PAROS, GREECE) - The Donkey Loft! Trent got a first glimpse of this apartment and told me excitedly “You’re never going to want to leave!” Luckily, we spent 9 nights in this sweet accommodation on the island of Paros. Host Marco gave us the best list of restaurants and things to do. We crossed off almost the entire list and were never disappointed.
BEST TOWNS - TOP 3
3. LAKE DISTRICT (ENGLAND)
2. LAKE BLED (SLOVENIA)
1. PAROS (GREECE)
BEST CITIES - TOP 3
3. ISTANBUL
2. EDINBURGH (Destination Guide Edinburgh)
1. LJUBLJANA, SLOVENIA
COUNTRIES VISITED RANKED! (Click on the countries below to see all of the posts dedicated to the destination)
8. AUSTRIA
7. HUNGARY
6. ENGLAND
5. CROATIA
4. SCOTLAND
3. TURKEY
2. SLOVENIA
1. GREECE
Which destination would you head to first from our itinerary? Did any new beach, activity, or food land on your wanderlust list?